The Tailor Academy
Construction
What is inside a jacket: canvas, shoulders, lapels, pockets, vents and buttons, and what each choice changes.
Most of what makes a jacket last is on the inside. These entries explain each part of a suit and what your choices change in the way it looks and wears.
- Different types of Pants Pockets Types (Part 1)From the French coin pocket to the classic back pocket, here is a plain-English guide to the pants pocket styles a tailor can cut for you.
- Different types of Pants Pockets Types (Part 2)Part two of our pants pocket guide covers the pleated pocket and other styles, so you know exactly what to ask for at the fitting.
- Half-Canvas vs Full-Canvas SuitCanvas is the hidden layer that gives a jacket its shape. Here is the real difference between fused, half-canvas and full-canvas builds.
- Types of Back Pant Pockets (p.1)Part one of our back pocket guide starts with the no-pocket design, built to keep pickpockets out and your wallet from wearing thin.
- Types of Back Pant Pockets (p.2)Part two covers the buttoned back pocket, a flattened welt style with a small button that sets it apart from the plain version type.
- Types Of Back Pant Pockets (P.3)Part three covers the slanted back pocket, angled for an athletic look with roots in old riding wear, built for quick, easy access.
- What Are The Different Jacket Sleeve Button TypesFour buttons is the sleeve-cuff standard today, but the norm has shifted between English, Italian and American tailoring over time.
- What are the different shoulder types in a suit?Shoulder construction is where fine tailoring separates itself from mass production. Here is a guide to the main shoulder types and fit.
- What Are The Different Types Of Jacket ?From the dart-free sack jacket to its French sacque origins, here is a full guide to the main jacket styles a tailor can cut for you.
- What are the different types of lapels?Lapels shape how a jacket's front reads. Here is a guide to the main lapel styles, and which occasions call for each one specifically.
- What are the different types of suit vents?The back vent is a small detail with a big effect on movement and drape. Here is a guide to the single, double and no-vent options.
- What are the main types of jacket pockets? (Part 1)Part one covers the main hip pocket styles on a jacket, why they are cut the way they are, and what each style says about the…
- What are the main types of jacket pockets? (Part 2)Part two covers the jetted, or besom, jacket pocket: slits with no flap, the most formal option and the standard choice for a tuxedo.
- What are the main types of jacket pockets? (Part 3)Part three covers the slanted jacket pocket, angled for an athletic look and usually aligned with the jacket's lowest front button.
- What Are The Types Of Suit Buttons ?Button count changes how a single-breasted jacket is cut. Here is what one, two and three-button styles mean for proportion and fit.
- What is a Single Breasted and Double Breasted Suit ?The difference comes down to button placement and how the jacket closes. Here is which occasions call for single or double-breasted.
- What is a Suit Vent for a Suit?A vent is the slit at the back hem of a jacket, built to give room to move. Here is where the design came from and…